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London Fashion Week: Day One Highlights

Drapers’ Junior Fashion editor Graeme Moran brings you the inside scoop from the first day of LFW, with a little help from Fashion Director Ian Wright, reporting in from the not typically fashionable No. 10, Downing Street.

The autumn 13 schedule is one of the busiest LFWs we’ve seen, kicking off with a polished show from Zoe Jordan. Signature androgyny and strong separates appeared in simple shapes and clean lines, with top notch outerwear, covetable knits and mannish tuxedo tailoring in navy and black, alongside a bolder shimmering set for after hours.

Next up came the new generation at the London College of Fashion’s MA show, staged in the beautiful Royal Opera House. The fully rounded and accomplished collections didn’t look out of place next to the day’s more established designers, with 10 of the rising stars of the future presenting their graduate ranges. Names to watch include Min Wu with her chic loose pleats, Antonia Lloyd and her colour blocked men’s tailoring, Sian Davies’ geometric draping and the print-on-print garden florals from Keiko Nishiyama.

There was opulence and drama at Fyodor Golan, where we’ve come to expect nothing less but a stunning show. Prints were overlaid with embroidery and couture-like embellishment on pieces arranged in origami folds revealing bare shoulders, while new knits and separates bought an everyday (and dare we say almost casual) touch to the beautiful spectacle.

KTZ and Felder Felder took things in a naughtier direction, with lashings of latex, rubber and altogether kinkier fabrics. The full a-line flicky skirts bought a girly touch to KTZ, while a lovely raspberry red covered some good outerwear options at Felder Felder, contrasting wools with furry pony skin.

The contender for show of the day came from Eudon Choi, who greeted his fashion show guests with a jolly musical quartet. A Russian folk theme was his inspiration back-story, but signature Choi came through. His trademark slightly masculine but always beautifully wearable coats appeared topped with shearling or paneled with contrasting fabrics, particularly textured jacquard, alongside sleek 6db leather jackets, while bouncy full skirts, drop waist dresses and flowing wide-leg trousers were topped with off with fun flower strewn oversized headscarves. If these were Choi’s folksy peasant girls, we can see lots of shoppers wanting to steal their style come autumn 13.

Plus this just in from our fashion director, Ian Wright:

Last night I popped by No.10 Downing Street (as you do) for LFW’s opening drinks reception. Samantha Cameron welcomed the fashion world into her home (or at least the bit she lets us rabble see) where the likes of Anna Wintour, Donatella Versace, Diane von Furstenburg, Jonathan Saunders, Christopher Bailey, Victoria Beckham, Manolo Blahnik, Matthew Williamson, JW Anderson, Stephen Jones, the Peter Pilotto boys, Helena Christensen, Christopher Raeburn, The Rochas (John and Simone) and Eudon Choi all rubbed shoulders. Six weeks in the new British Fashion Council chair Natalie Massenet spoke in a measured yet impassioned way about British fashion, paying tribute to the work Caroline Rush and her team has done to raise London’s profile beyond the avant-garde and pure creativity. Massenet was also at pains to emphasise the importance of business to London Fashion Week, something echoed by Mrs Cameron – in a room that contained a bevy of senior people from British retail (Selfridges’ Sebastian Manes and Ruth Chapman from Matches come to mind) and PPR CEO and Chairman Francois-Henri Pinault, that sentiment was bound to find favour. As I wandered away from Downing Street that was the one thing that stuck in my mind – oh and that if that meteor that’s been circling earth had somehow hit No.10, British fashion would’ve up the proverbial creek…

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