Associate fashion editor Graeme Moran breaks down the highlights from the first day of shows at LFW.
Eudon Choi’s autumn 14 collection promises to be his winning range, balancing his beautiful handwriting with a wearablility and wide-spread appeal that had many at his show writing shopping lists before the final model had walked. His coats, always his trademark, came chunky and cosy, in checks and thick wools; updates on classic pea coats and parkas trimmed in fur and shearling. Elsewhere, flattering dresses and jumpsuits looked so simple and effortless. His skill is making clothes that all modern women want.
Christopher Raeburn continued to expand and grow his womenswear line too, adding knitwear this season as he did at January’s menswear show. Those knits, intarsia polar bear jumpers and knitted dresses, promise to be best sellers, as well as his always strong outerwear, combining his technical wizardry with simply great cuts.
There was a signature rock edge at Jean-Pierre Braganaza, where chunky leather panelling sat beside soft silks, emblazoned with prints lifted from Baroque paintings. The designer called it “refined rebellion”, with highlights including his take on sexy tuxedo dressing.
Turkish designer Bora Aksu riffed on his trademark soft femininity with an exotic spin, as he combined lace and cord with sheer panelling in a soft and girly palette. The lightness of the designs were sometimes more suited to Aksu’s warmer climes than rainy London, but gave a freshness to the winter season’s offer. Skirt lengths mostly remained on or below the knee, while sparkle layered under lace lent a twinkling effect.
Fyodor Golan turned it up a notch this season, bringing a somewhat more wearable aspect to their usual demi-couture collections. Boundaries were still pushed and intricate embellishment still present, as iridescent wipe clean fabrics clashed with fuzzy mohair and shaggy fur, while the designer duo used 3D printing to create a spiked bright pink top. There were even a couple of men’s looks for good measure.
Mark Fast’s knitwear took a step forward too, with more breadth in his collection and new silhouettes suggesting a move away from his perennial body con dresses. New coats came as slouchy wrap styles, like those spotted in New York, while the warp and weft of some pieces were left to unravel to create an artsy, undone look. Current stockists will be happy, while I’m sure he’ll attract new interest too.
We met the female counterpart to Nasir Mazhar’s autumn 14 man, as the designer carried the urban armour-style glittering emerald silks, logo-emblazoned trims and sport-meets-street aesthetic to his womenswear offer. But, as with his menswear, there were wonderful pieces; collaged fabric sweaters and a mixing of proportions to create new takes on traditional sportswear shapes.
British stalwart Daks celebrated its 120th anniversary with a romp through military heritage, classic brand tropes and reworking of its famous trench coat. Highlights included classy camel cashmere blazer-dresses and slim legged tailored suits.
For our full report from London Fashion Week see next week’s issue of Drapers Magazine
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