Associate fashion editor Graeme Moran’s stand out shows from the third day at LFW.
Richard Nicoll summed up his show as “textured simplicity, easy opulence, aspirational realism, modernist romance”; an explanation both as simple and as complex as his clothes. Wonderful colours including all shades of blue and red covered a range of killer coats and pretty pieces littered with glistening sequins and stroke-able fur. Combined with his stellar menswear collection, autumn 14 is a super strong season for Nicoll.
Jonathan Saunders jolted his audience with a collection off mashed up prettiness that reminds us of his off-kilter charm. Long coats came with awkward exaggerated ruched shoulders, patched with masterfully mismatched fabric swatches. Similar dresses were patch-worked together, mixing cut out florals or pinstripe squares with glittered fabrics, or in checkerboard patterns with peek-a-boo sheer squares, all finished to the highest quality. Saunder’s always wins with his knitwear and this season was no different. Chunky flecked yarns created the cosiest and most covetable jumpers of the London shows, often teamed with matching scarves that are sure to fly from the shelves.
Margaret Howell did what she does best, with a solid range of easy, wearable and real pieces. Skirts again, like all over London, fell below the knee, while new tartans livened up frilled placket shirts, cord and heavy cotton.
Described in the show notes as “the start of a more exciting era” at Temperley London, autumn 14 did signal a refresh at the brand. Art Nouveau florals were matched and layered with geometric mosaics covering dresses and separates for “day, cocktail and eveningwear”. Stand out pieces included some great casual knits, a pretty pink wide lapel coat and a delicate quilting on dresses, all topped with some great embroidery.
With Kate Moss and Kendall Jenner sat beside Sir Phillip Green, there was a buzz about the front row at Topshop’s Unique show. The parade of blues looked strong, with a play on different layered lengths and textures to create something that was fun and fresh. Short skirts and short shorts will prove chilly, but some fantasy coloured faux furs and fashion puffa-style jackets kept things cosy.
A new head of design at Matthew Williamson signalled a change that was less boho but still with Williamson’s sense of glamour and fun. More separates joined signature dresses, covered in pattern and embellishment.
It felt like a best of from Vivienne Westwood’s Red Label, with plenty of tartan, ruched dresses and her trademark tailoring featuring fun lapels that each made up one side of a heart. The large lapelled coats will work well for the season’s oversized outerwear trend.