Here are Drapers’ junior fashion editor Graeme Moran’s best bits from the second day of LFW.
Model of the moment Cara Delevigne made her first appearance at LFW, opening proceedings at the Sister by Sibling show where signature knits were the order of the day. The Sibling trio scored with a show that balanced their bonkers eccentricity (see the oversized chunky knit bobble berets and super-long scarves) with some lovely, and truly commercial pieces that buyers would be crazy to miss.
World War II sea forts were the unlikely inspiration at Christopher Raeburn, who turned these rusting relics into luxed-up outerwear and utilitarian feminine dresses. The opening duffel coat with cute caps topping the long sleeves, the delicate bonded wool lace that appeared on dresses and panelled outerwear, the sporty take on the traditional trench – another great collection from Raeburn.
There was a riot of sixties colour pops at Jasper Conran and a family affair at John Rocha (his daughter, and LFW rising star Simone was sat front row, his wife seating guests and his son taking care of the show’s sound track), as trademark sculptural skirts and intricate felt dresses appeared next to some beautiful tailoring and sleek over-sized outerwear, the most interesting of which came with slit sleeves worn almost like a cape.
Julian Macdonald made a return to the LFW schedule this season, showing a sparkling set of teeny dresses and party gowns in shimmering golds, drawing in a front row of celeb-mag IT girls and pop princesses, including all five of the Saturdays showered in paparazzi flashes.
Over at House of Holland, designer Henry Holland always goes that extra mile and this season was no different. His autumn 13 invite was a retro cassette tape that apparently contained real music (but who still has a cassette player to test it out!?) and a seventies swirling carpet as his catwalk. Entitled ‘Nana Rave’, it was seventies meets nineties with psychedelic patterns in an acid house colour palette. The sweet dresses and shaggy shearling coats were the heroes of the show, particularly the fun inside out bomber jacket.
Then it was on to the star-studded International Woolmark Prize ceremony. With the glamorous judging panel sat front row, including Victoria Beckham, Donatella Versace and Diane Von Furstenberg, it was the winning collection from Christian Wijnants that stole the show. Beautifully sculptural seamless knit dresses came in 100% merino wool, hand knitted and hand dyed – a name to watch out for!
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