Associate fashion editor Graeme Moran’s second day of shows at LFW.
Iconic 1920 silent films such as Fritz Lang’s Metropolis lent inspiration to Holly Fulton’s confident autumn 14 showing, with a polished and well-edited collection. Separates had a slight fifties feel, with longer length skirts reaching the knee swathed in long line outerwear. Fulton’s prints were reimagined as metallic and high gloss film bonded in layers, while her statement lurex knits will find many fans.
Similar cinematic inspirations appeared at Emilia Wickstead’s elegant show, were film noir heroines stalked the catwalk to lend a slightly tougher edge to the designer’s repertoire. Leather and python print were contrasted with pearl embellishment, while signature feminine cinched waist dresses that fell to an exaggerated full skirt were contrasted with over-sized coats and loose, laid back suits.
We saw signature John Rocha, with beautiful organic shapes and a prettily undone approach. Crochet, tattered lace and tiered organza dresses came in a dark palette of black and blood red, while velvet lent yet more texture on wide, oversized coats.
As Europe’s representatives in the upcoming Woolmark Awards wool prize, we expected nothing less than a knit frenzy at Sibling. This season the focus was on the unravelling of knits, cob-webby, torn and tattered in a slight gothic style, crocheted and woven back together. It looked very undone (and even tripped a couple of models by catching in their pointy heels), but of course required a lot of skill. As always, core to collection were some great jumpers, such as the opening pixelated graphic, a heart-shaped embellished style and textured orange number alongside new denim pieces.
In a freezing warehouse 1205* dropped temperatures yet further with its cool collection of inky indigo shades and easy, breezy pieces. Simple but effective is what I wrote in my note pad, as navy smock like dresses and jackets lent an artist-at-work feel, while chunky fisherman knits were teamed with the perfect cropped trouser to reveal chilly ankles.
Some people might not ‘get’ JW Anderson, but I don’t think the designer really cares. His latest collection, which brought a longer silhouette and somewhat softer, earthier feel to recent offerings with earthy textures such as shearling and wale cord, continued his search for new shapes and silhouettes. But it’s these new experimentations that, while some question, other praise as the Irish designer offers fashion something new.
Rising star Lucas Nascimento showed up one of my favourite collections of the day, focusing on a modern femininity that London’s young designers offer us so well at the moment. As the trends seem to form, Nascimento was bang on the money with his pleat front wide leg trousers, long skirts and cosy oversized outerwear, balancing a restrained and minimal approach with enough warmth and comfort.
House of Holland’s “Rich Bitches” bought a punch of colour and kitsch to day two, with the designer Henry Holland’s unabashed use of bright tones and rich texture. While show stoppers including colourful quilted bombers with that rich bitch slogan emblazoned on the back will bring a smile to his fans face, there were incredibly wearable and sellable pieces too, including pretty collared dresses and a new hang bag range that will keep buyers happy.
Boot brand Hunter launched its Hunter Official clothing range this season, designed by creative director Alasdhair Willis at a show that was the event of the day. American Vogue editor Anna Wintour sat front row with Willis’s wife, none other than Stella McCartney, as models walked through an indoor, tree-lined river and magician Dynamo made a cameo on the catwalk. The clothes were great too, focusing on technical and rubberised outerwear and some pretty special chunky knits for both men and women.
For our full report from London Fashion Week see next week’s issue of Drapers Magazine