As the lights went down at Le Carre du Louvre in Paris on Wednesday, Marc Jacobs’ time at the design helm of Louis Vuitton came to an end.
The collection aside (a dramatic infusion of feathered dresses, sheer bodysuits and - err - boyfriend jeans, a greatest hits of Jacobs’ LV adventure) it was the set itself which marked the most poignant aspect of Jacobs’ farewell show. A showman to the core, Jacobs’ time at Louis Vuitton has been largely characterized by catwalk sets that have awed spectators. His final collection was shown on a set built around highlights of Jacobs’ previous shows, but designed entirely in black, offering a funeral-like trip down memory lane.
Here, Drapers takes a look back through the archives to remember the classic moments which formed the spring 14 set.
The Fountain (Autumn 10)
Jacobs’ ladylike, floral-infused autumn collection was playfully presented around a centralised fountain, where the catwalks formed a circle as wide as the full skirting on the 1950s-inspired dresses.
A foray into fetish (Autumn 11)
Controversy abounded when Kate Moss strode out modelling the final look of the show, complete with a lit cigarette. The collection paid homage to kink, with ultra-form-fitting silhouettes in laser-cut leather accompanied by luxurious fur trims while the catwalk itself featured metal gates and uniformed bell-boys, a frisky element which marked the beginning of Jacobs’ interest in hotel settings for his shows.
The Carousel (Spring 12)
Fresh and feminine, the pastel coloured spring 12 collection emphasises Jacobs’ affinity for batting between two extremes - naughty and nice. A high contrast to the leather clad models and late-night hotel theme of the previous season, this show saw the models demurely making their way around a giant white carousel, complete with prancing horses.
The Train (Autumn 12)
Looking back to the past has often informed Jacobs’ collections, and with the rich history of Louis Vuitton at his disposal, autumn 12 saw a cinematic, full train station setting, harking to the luggage-making beginnings of the brand. Porters carried branded trunks and bags, while models exited the train in pristine ‘travel clothes’ from thick wool coats with a turn-of-the-century feel. Raising the bar yet again, this show literally went down in history.
The Escalators (Spring 13)
With travel a recurring theme, spring 13 at Louis Vuittion turned to the ‘mod’ look, using escalators to raise models above spectators, showing off the checked prints and monochrome and yellow shift dresses that typified this 1960s-esque collection.
The Hotel (Autumn 13)
Autumn saw another complete turnaround from Jacobs’, moving far away from the fun, quirky collection of spring into a much darker mood, complete with hotel setting. Models walked in negligées and fur-trimmed coats, in deep velvets and fine silks. Emerging from behind hotel room doors, they typified film noir glamour, with a presentation that was as clever as it was beautiful.