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Monday at London Fashion Week: blooming marvellous big hitters

Drapers fashion director Ian Wright on the main men and women from day 4 at LFW

“Florals? For spring? Ground breaking.” So goes the famous quip from fictional magazine matriarch Miranda Priestly in the movie The Devil Wears Prada. It’s a running joke but the very reason it continues to run is because designers continue to faun over flora. But on day 4 of London Fashion Week we saw the evergreen trend bloom into life, with some of the week’s biggest names taking florals beyond standard ditsy prints.

At Roksanda Ilincic the elegant designer picked up where her resort collection left off, reemploying her beautifully naive 3-D jewelled flower detailing across hems and trim of simple dresses and drop-shoulder jackets.

Christopher Bailey was on the same wavelength for Burberry Prorsum, using chunky gems to decorate below the knee skirts, trenches and cropped jackets with brooch-like clusters. The finale saw petals tumble from the sky as a delicate reminder of the rain outside.

This gentle floral theme had earlier been picked up on by Erdem, whose densely embroidered and appliquéd blooms blossomed over sheer-sleeved bomber jackets, strapless playsuits and peekaboo trousers. Stunning and serene.

On a harder tack, Christopher Kane continued to flick through his biology text book, moving on from brain scans into horticultural diagrams for a collection that will surely provide the killer top from LFW, namely either the ‘Petal’ knit or the annotated chart sweat. Scattered petal peepholes added a suggestive element, taking the edge off the prettiness.

To conclude, Peter Pilotto hit their Target market (a reference to the duo’s new collaboration with the US retailer they announced before the show), with embroidered Oriental-style flower arrangements where the negative space between petals was filled with a highly concentrated amount of stand-up sequins that graduated gently from one pastel shade to the next.

OK, so overall ‘ground-breaking’ might be overselling it, but these green-fingered designers innovated enough to suggest that we’ll be seeing the perennial trend emerge again next year.

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