Drapers fashion director Ian Wright on the surprising turn of events on the week’s final day
With the final day of New York Fashion Week boasting three of the schedule’s biggest hitters (much to the chagrin of LFW no doubt), the curtain was always going to come down on another season with a bang. But what was notable was the surprising twist in the tale we came across.
The morning saw Ralph Lauren present something that at first appeared to be the sensible spring development of his autumn monochrome theme, but then he flipped the switch and on came a procession of electric all-over primary colour (plus orange) looks that shocked the crowds.
Then came Francisco Costa’s 10th anniversary show for Calvin Klein Collection which eschewed some of the harder, sportier tropes of his tenure, swapping them for a more fluid, feminine look. It worked and will sell, but as a hardcore Calvin fan it was a little too compromised for my personal taste.
Finally Marc Jacobs took his bow, after a show of dark and confrontational looks, commenting that he doesn’t know anyone who wears pastels, one of New York’s key trends thus far. Marc has done pretty in the past, but always with his edge, but this completely nocturnal collection will pose some interesting problems when it comes to merchandising the collection come spring. Most surprising of all was the hint to the Coca Cola branding on a slouchy maroon sweatshirt – we all know Marc only drinks Diet Coke.
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