Drapers’ fashion director Ian Wright picks his winners from the BFA shortlist
So now we know who is up for the gongs at the BFC’s British Fashion Awards taking place on December 2, the first in the event’s history that will allow the layperson to purchase tickets for. I’ve had a go at picking who I think will be winners – I’d love to hear your thoughts on my selection methodology and I’d also like you to play along by suggesting your own in the comments.
EMERGING TALENT AWARD - WOMENSWEAR
Marques’Almeida, Simone Rocha, Thomas Tait
Old hand John’s daughter will hold off competition from denim aficionados Marques’Almeida and Thomas Tait and his sporty simplicity. Rocha’s beautiful fabrics and contemporary cuts with attitude shine out.
EMERGING TALENT AWARD - MENSWEAR
Agi & Sam, Christopher Shannon, Craig Green
While Craig Green is still a bit too much art and not enough fashion for my money, and Christopher Shannon strong but still not designing fully sellable ranges, it can only be Agi & Sam for this one, with their commercial yet witty wares.
EMERGING TALENT AWARD - ACCESSORIES
Dominic Jones, Mr Hare, Sophia Webster
Nothing against Jones or Webster but I’ve been a big fan of Mark Hare’s footwear for a while. Innovative fabrications but with a reverence to classicism, he also makes a damn good luxury trainer.
ACCESSORY DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Anya Hindmarch, Charlotte Olympia, Nicholas Kirkwood
What a year for Mr Kirkwood – he picked up £200k with the BFC Vogue Fashion Fund at the beginning of the year before LVMH bought a majority stake in the business and he opened his first men’s store. Winning form from last year’s winner.
RED CARPET AWARD
Antonio Berardi, Erdem, Victoria Beckham
If his spring 14 collection was anything to go by, Erdem should walk this category. The collections are pretty without being cutesy, and are underlined by a statuesque quality, even beyond the gowns.
MODEL OF THE YEAR AWARD (UNISEX)
Cara Delevingne, Edie Campbell, Sam Rollinson
Love her or hate her and her relationship with Harry 1D but you can’t ignore the force of youthful nature Ms Delevingne. She won it last year and I can’t see any reason why she won’t grab the gong again this.
BRAND OF THE YEAR
Alexander McQueen, Burberry, Victoria Beckham
It’s hard to look past this multi-billion pound brand for this award. While one of its competitors went through a transitional year and the other look strong but is still relatively small, the Burberry machine should pick this up, especially in Ahrendts’ swansong year.
INTERNATIONAL DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Marc Jacobs, Miuccia Prada (Prada), Raf Simons (Dior)
NEW ESTABLISHMENT AWARD
J.W. Anderson, Mary Katrantzou, Peter Pilotto
Having been added to the LVMH stable this year, the sometimes contrary Irish designer just pips the Pilotto boys for me on this one. His menswear may be a little…ahem…unconventional, but his womenswear is challenging and exciting.
MENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Christopher Bailey (Burberry), Kim Jones (Louis Vuitton), Tom Ford
Ford’s collections are exquisite, and if I were just judging on which I’d pick to fully stock my wardrobe it’d be his, but lack a wit while Bailey’s don’t but riff on the womenswear a little too much. Jones’ modern and intelligent clothes for LV should see him pick up the gong again.
WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Christopher Kane, Phoebe Philo (Céline), Sarah Burton (Alexander McQueen)
Because of her pregnancy, for autumn 13 Burton presented a curtailed collection which detracts from her entry somewhat. Kering-backed Kane is a strong contender but Philo takes it for her cult-like following and ability to make the peculiar seem the most natural progression clothing should take.