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Couture Fashion Week: austerity and boudoir from Christian Dior

It was less couture, more boudoir for Christian Dior’s autumn 09 couture collection, as John Galliano paired the post-war austerity of the 1940s with an underwear as outerwear theme in his ultra-feminine offering.

The stockings and suspenders silhouette reflected the re-emergence of burlesque but the collection also toned down the overt ostentation of the archetypal couture collection by deflecting focus, in Galliano’s case, to super sexiness, which he paired with an Audrey Hepburn-like modesty.

The colleciton included fluttering white slips, two-piece suits, corsets and sculpted jackets and plunging bustiers, opaque plisse skirts and silk negligees.

Despite the un-couture feel of the collection, Galliano’s mastery of cut and shape was in plenty of evidence, with oversized bubble skirts, structured shoulders and peplumed jackets, exaggerated hourglass shapes and ball gowns of layered tulle.

See all catwalk collections from Couture Fashion Week


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