Following on from troubled Christian Lacroix’s poignant funereal widows collection on Tuesday, the last day of Paris couture offered little in the way of light relief for the watching faithful.
While Elie Saab turned out an angelic all-white collection of cable knit minis, structural layered suiting, feathered frocks and woven dresses, the other big hitters of the day – Jean Paul Gaultier and Valentino – were less keen to lighten the mood.
Gaultier’s typical military-come-admiralty influence was in evidence in khaki button-down leotards, sparkly red and white striped tops and gold-trimmed darted velvet coats. Sharply shouldered leather trenches and dress coats and cut-away amour suits were all rendered in black, with little colour peppering proceedings, other than some flapper-style gold and silver dresses towards the end of the show.
Over at Valentino, black again led the charge, on plisséd and floral lace minis and in undulating ruffles of organza. Texture, a theme which has usurped colour continually during the week, was all important again, as laquered, metallic and appliquéd fabrics created the most interest on a palette of black, silver and flesh tones.