Fashion month is finally over for another season, and now’s the time that everyone takes stock of what was shown and whether any of it will sell.
While some designers gave us romanticised images of a soft-focus summer, others had a much steelier commercial head on and went big on branding.
It seems like not since the logotastic heyday of early 1990s Versace and Moschino have so many pieces been branded up, and across such aesthetically disparate labels. Sweaters and T-shirts were the styles of choice for many, as tops bore brand names; witty quips from Sister by Sibling, initials at Fyodor Golan and PPQ, understated tone-on-tone embroidered lettering from Frankie Morello, Zoe Jordan’s hand-scrawled writing, loud monochrome patterns from DKNY and Nasir Mazhar, and Missoni’s less offensive offering all featured. Meanwhile, Y-3 played with the famous three stripes.
Alexander Wang took a similarly black and white view on branding as DKNY but also a Morello-esque subtlety, giving the repeat of his moniker a refinement that turned it from a trashy, blunt statement into a beautiful textural detail, through embroidery, lace and laser-cut leather. Marc Jacobs’ Louis Vuitton swansong opened with model Edie Campbell painted with its iconic graffiti branding.
And it wasn’t just fashion names, as both Jacobs and Ashish went for the real thing by borrowing Coca-Cola’s logo, and New York Fashion Week’s Fay gave a home to Snoopy. But it was left to the old hands at Moschino to trump everyone with a huge shopping bag splashed with its own unashamedly bold logo, worn as a dress.
In the blizzard of brands, getting your name out there has never been more important. Looks like luxury designers have got the message.