British menswear line E Tautz is to open its first store on London’s Duke Street.
Famed for its military heritage and sporting traditions, the luxury ready-to-wear brand has five UK stockists including LN-CC and J Crew in London and Hervia Bazaar in Manchester.
Creative director and owner Patrick Grant told Drapers the location made sense “as E Tautz started in the area, at 485 Oxford Street in 1867.”
Its 2,000 sq ft flagship at 57-73 Duke Street will be split across two levels and is expected to open this autumn on a 10-year lease.
Footfall on the street, which is directly opposite Selfridges, is around 100,000 shoppers a week. Started last year, the Grosvenor redevelopment has transformed the block from a row of amenities for local residents (such as cafes and dry cleaners) to a seven-unit retail area at ground and basement level. On the floors above, the renamed 65 Duke Street offers residential units.
Adjacent to E Tautz’s retail unit is the Duke Street Emporium – a concept store comprising Jigsaw, The Shop at Bluebird and Fernandez & Wells cafe – and milliner Laura Apsit Livens.
Grosvenor has made the most of the space – Livens’ 59 Duke Street shop is a listed staircase and hallway it was not allowed to alter. It is poised to sign another as-yet undisclosed menswear brand by the end of the year for the final vacant retail space in the block, a 2,000 sq ft unit.
It also led the redevelopment of Mount Street – which now houses Roksanda, Gina, Nicholas Kirkwood and Céline, among others – into a luxury brand destination.
Grosvenor’s director of retail leasing Helen Franks said Duke Street would be distinguished from other menswear hubs such as Savile Row by focusing on designer menswear diffusion lines.
Grant said: “We couldn’t afford to move to Mount Street – we’re a young brand, we needed to go somewhere with potential. In a few years’ time I think Duke Street will be filled with like-minded stores.”
Franks added: “We were working on Mount Street when we saw a need for more contemporary and directional fashion leases. The people approaching us were British menswear brands keen to have a Mayfair address. On Duke Street, shops were already trading very well and we weren’t seeing many retailers vacate.”
Menswear designer Rake was the first to move in at 77 Duke Street in April last year.
“The proximity to Selfridges is hugely important,” Franks said. “The customers we’re targeting are Selfridges customers who can see a brand’s concession there and then come and over and visit their Duke Street shop.”
There are around 20 retail units on the street and Franks said the redevelopment was “an ongoing process”, adding the tenant mix will evolve as shop leases become available.
She said Grosvenor is hoping to capture upmarket shoppers and tourists from neighbouring hotels Claridge’s and The Connaught.
Luxury spend in central London is increasing, particularly from foreign shoppers. A survey by The World Tourism Organisation estimated Chinese visitors alone spend three times more on luxury goods on average than any other nationality when visiting London.