Streetwear trade show Bread & Butter is understood to be cutting 25% of its exhibitors for next season’s edition as part of its plans to shake up the format.
Last month the Berlin-based event announced it would axe a number of long-term exhibitors for its autumn 13 show on January 15 to 17.
Drapers understands that brands have started to receive letters from B&B organisers telling them not to reapply for next season’s event, although a spokeswoman declined to confirm or deny what the final tally of culled exhibitors would be.
A representative from one label told Drapers: “About a quarter of the current brand list is likely to be affected but it is mainly the smaller mainstream brands rather than any of the denim giants.”
A UK footwear distributor added: “It seems that they are looking to get rid of the mass-market mid-price brands you can find at other trade shows. The sort of brands that also show at the likes of Pure and Moda are the ones that are likely to be affected.
“That said, though, they aren’t likely to get rid of the cash cows that are Tommy [Hilfiger] and G-Star.”
One brand manager said those that had been asked not to exhibit this year lacked global appeal and were smaller labels for domestic markets. A B&B spokeswoman said she could not confirm how many brands would be cut from next season’s edition, saying organisers were still in negotiations. However, the January show is likely to include new brands, including select designers from Japan.
“One of the goals was to fill the space with new brands, which are the icing on the cake for any independent retailer,” the spokeswoman said. It is understood the floorplan for January’s show will be released in the next two weeks, with B&B organisers expected to merge the Street Fashion and Sport & Street areas and close a couple of the halls. B&B’s spokeswoman said she could not confirm any changes but the main hall would be restructured with an “extraordinary concept”. She added: “It’s more about mixing and merging brands from different areas.”
Despite the confusion, attendees have broadly welcomed the changes. One agent told Drapers: “Hopefully it’ll mean B&B can return to the sort of show it was when it started - when you could discover brands you couldn’t find elsewhere and take them back to the UK.”