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Fresh spring 18 colours pop at Première Vision

Acid green and shocking fuchsia sat alongside heady mauve, morning blue, salmon pink and air grey in the trend area of the spring 18 edition of Paris textile trade show Première Vision, heralding a new mood of optimism and energy for the season ahead.

The influence of international colour authority Pantone’s colour of 2017, Greenery, was felt throughout the trend presentations: many displays referenced tropical prints, digitised botanicals and plant-inspired patterns against a backdrop of live foliage.

The event brings together 1,678 exhibitors – 112 from the UK – covering the entire textile supply chain, from yarns, fabrics and leather through to design, accessories and manufacturing.

This season there was a big push on fashionable wearable technology in the “Wearable Lab” section, which featured 10 examples of clothing and accessories, and a showroom of four start-ups.

Japanese knitting machinery manufacturer Shima Seiki attracted visitors to its stand with its Wholegarment knitting machine, which stood out as machinery is not usually on show at Première Vision.

The exhibition floor was busy on the second day but some commented that it was quieter than in recent seasons, and security fears cannot have helped. There did not seem to be as heavy a security presence visible at the show as last September’s edition, although bags were checked thoroughly at the entrance and there were personnel in the venue.

Buyers from Marks & Spencer, Jigsaw, Boden, FatFace and some of the Arcadia brands were spotted perusing the stands on the first two days, while Première Vision regulars Sir Paul Smith and Nigel Cabourn were also in attendance.

The Maison D’Exceptions area, which groups exclusive ateliers offering artisanal or novel fancy designs and techniqyes, had 10 new exhibitors alongside 17 firms which have shown previously. East London’s London Embroidery Studio, supplier to Louis Vuitton, Acne Studios and Victoria Beckham, joined Studio Andreea Mandrescu and Rare Thread in the UK line-up this season.

The UK mills had a good reason to make some noise this season: three were celebrating significant anniversaries. Yorkshire-based cashmere and wool specialist Joshua Ellis marks its 250th anniversary this year, while Lochcarron of Scotland, known for its authentic Scottish tartans, is celebrating 70 years in business, and Abraham Moon & Sons, one of the last remaining vertical woollen mills, has reached the age of 180.

Première Vision runs from 7 to 9 February at Parc des Expositions in Paris. The next shows will be held on 19-21 September and 13-15 February 2018.

View from Première Vision

  • “The first day was busy for us and today has been good, many of the mills have said it was a bit quieter though. There’s a good showing from the UK here.”

Beryl Gibson, design consultant at UK Fashion and Textiles Association

  • “It was especially busy on the first day. We were rushed off our feet and the reception to our new Refibra – which combines cotton scraps and wood – has been great.”

Andreas Dorner, director of commercial textiles for Europe and the Americas at Austria-based fibre company Lenzing

  • “It has been mixed for us today – there have been flurries when it was really busy but then a few lulls. We’ve seen people from Italy, Korea, France and Greece but not really that many UK buyers. There have also been quite a few individuals that have left some big luxury brands to set up on their own, which are interested but we’ll have to see.”

Jayne Woodthorpe, managing director of cashmere and woollen mill Joshua Ellis

  • “You can generally meet interesting brands and designers here and they really tell us what they think of the fibre which is good. The biggest value of this show for me is being able to see all the trends together. It’s been a good show so far for us.”

Janis Lee, sales and marketing director at Taiwan-based fibre company Umorfil

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