New York Fashion Week is often slated for being too commercial and lacking in inspiration. Disappointingly, this was the case with many of this year’s shows.
But some designers always produce great collections such as Proenza Schouler, Zac Posen and Derek Lam, while Marc Jacobs also rarely misses a beat when creating pioneering trends.
This year his layers of ginghams, metallic fabrics and structured tweeds left fashion pulses racing and the audience was eager to see more.
Jacobs’ fresh ideas and trends will be picked up by the high street, but what else will we see in the wardrobe for spring 09?
Costume jewellery designers have focused on chunky jewellery, the more ornate the better. At Marc Jacobs, necklaces were the size of small handbags and large bangles were layered, while jewelled cuffs had a touch of folk craftmanship and were adorned with safety pins, beads and zippers.
Urban chic clothing with muted tones of grey, lilac and mushroom in strong graphic shapes were seen at DKNY, BCBG Max Azria and Vera Wang. These colours were lifted by shots of electric blue, yellow and orange, while harem-style trousers billowed on the runways of Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger.
Ruffled layers were present on skirts and blouses at Diane von Furstenberg and Carolina Herrera. And Americana themes, such as strong red, white and blue featured widely alongside a touch of sunny yellow. Tommy Hilfiger also confined his palette to these tones and wholeheartedly embraced the all-American theme.
Aisling Cullen is fashion adviser for retail property consultancy Lunson Mitchenall.