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Browns buying director Ida Petersson's verdict on the second day of London Fashion Week

richard quinn autumn 20 getty images 1206511910

Storm Dennis set upon the capital with full force and saw attendees attempting to avoid the downpour, but a line-up of vibrant shows made up for the grey weather.

Fluid draping, tailored suiting and muted colourways at Petar Petrov proved a sophisticated start to the Saturday schedule. The minimalist collection was a palette cleanser, but still incorporated a mixture of textures, including “teddy” style coats, oversized leather and elevated windcheaters.

petar petrov getty images 1206412566

petar petrov getty images 1206412566

Peter Patrov autumn 20

The fashion crowd then descended to Brick Lane and The Truman Brewery for shows including Marques Almeida and Fashion East, which saw collections by four designers, varying from a collection of delicate, sheer pieces by Nensi Dojaka, to a disruptive ode to Americana from Gareth Wrighton.

Molly Goddard treated her audience to tables set with white wine, bread and butter - and her signature voluminous, tulle dresses were the main course, with buttercup yellow being autumn 20’s standout style. Goddard also showed menswear for the first time, with design elements flowing from the womenswear collection, including checkered suiting, patterned cardigans and a Peter Pan collared coat.

molly goddard autumn 20 getty images 1206445151

molly goddard autumn 20 getty images 1206445151

Molly Goddard autumn 20

The colour crush continued at Halpern, where models were sent down the catwalk in satin gowns in rich shades of blue and fuchsia, alongside its signature rainbow sequins.

The evening was rounded off with a spectacular of a show from Richard Quinn. Menswear was unveiled for the first time, offering “a new welcome to entrance making gentlemen” with looks that were just as heavily beaded and embellished as their womenswear counterparts, and silhouettes that played with proportions due to flared trouser shapes.

richard quinn autumn 20 getty images 1206511509

richard quinn autumn 20 getty images 1206511509

Richard Quinn autumn 20

Quinn’s show was set inside a London townhouse, its opulent, rose adorned facade contrasting with its fetish-like inhabitants. The juxtaposition of graphic, colourful florals and black latex returned, as did Quinn’s penchant for shrouding the face, this season with both latex and floral masks. Blooms were contrasted with beaded monochrome polka dots and oversized houndstooth patterns. The theme of the capital continued with the appearance of Pearly Kings and Queens, representing ”London working class couture” - emblazoned with “God save the Quinn” on their backs.

Ida Petersson, buying director of Browns gives Drapers her verdict from the second day of London Fashion Week.

Why do you attend London Fashion Week?

Because it’s one of the best places in the world for spotting new talent and every season we find something new. I wouldn’t miss it for the world! 

What are you looking for in the LFW shows this season?

The same as always, this is where we shop for fun and directional collections as well as supporting home grown talent. 

Which collections stood out today?

I loved the five brands that showed under Fashion East today, they were very different but the energy was electric! Molly was as always mind bogglingly beautiful and then Richard Quinn closed the day by blowing my mind. 

How was the atmosphere at today’s shows?

Despite the awful weather, I felt there was great energy and optimism. 

Are there any trends or must-buys emerging from the collections this year?

Beige evening wear, leather, tailoring, and 90s minimalism. I’m hoping for more radical movements from London onwards. 

How were the New York shows?

Over the past few seasons I’ve felt that the best and most interesting collections in NYC are found off schedule but we absolutely loved Khaite. 

Are there any designers you are looking forward to seeing in the international collections?

In Milan I’m looking forward to Bottega and Prada and in Paris there are almost too many but if I have to choose - Marine Serre, Issey Miyake and Kenneth Ize.


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