Drapers rounds up the final instalment of the autumn 15 edition of LCM
As day four dawned, it was the turn of London’s big names to take to the catwalk, including Christopher Bailey’s Burberry and fledging label Craig Green – two brands that are big in different ways.
Burberry is referred to by some as the headline act of LCM. It pulls in the biggest crowd of industry influencers and puts on one of the biggest events, this season its huge purpose-built tent was filled with a shower of glitter, live streamed from central London right across the world.
For autumn, Bailey brought some quirk and personality to his collection, mixing and clashing prints, patterns and fabrics in an almost bohemian and care-free way. Shearling and teddy bear coats were cosy and sturdy, layered over an array of shirts covered in colourful foliage or blobbed with camouflage, teamed with sturdy corduroy trousers and smart, simple shoes. Some looks came covered in fuzzy leopard patterns, others with fluffy knits, while the closing items were sprinkled with exotic mirrored beads, including the brand’s signature trench coach. Sometimes the combinations felt random, and at others it seemed like a wardrobe collected on worldwide travels. For the buyers, it was full of new season statement-makers alongside some outstanding wardrobe classics updated in fresh autumn fabrics – the perfect combination.
On to Craig Green, whose autumn 15 collection was only his second-ever solo show. Green is London’s most talked about new brand, but the hype is translating into sales, with stockists such as Matchesfashion.com and Dover Street Market reportedly already selling out of his new season clothes. One for the more directional customers, Green challenges menswear’s rules, taking apart wardrobe classics and putting them back together in new ways. His new collection might appeal to an even broader range of stockists and shoppers however, with its utilitarian parachute-style coats and uniform-like working jackets, warrior-like strapped on padded gilets, roomy cargo pants and chunky knits.
Elsewhere, Smedley’s designer introduced us to the brand’s first foray into thick winter knits, moving outside of its signature lightweight, fine gauge styles. Tiger of Sweden riffed on its rock and roll look, focusing on bomber jacket shapes in various quilted designs, while Nasir Mazhar continued on his quest of elevating the urban edge of his sport and street silhouettes with rich fabrics contrasted with functional finishes, such as this season’s standout was a golden jacquard.
Patrick Grant continues to breathe life into the staid stereotype of Savile Row with his E Tautz brand. This season the look was louche and slouchy, but still perfectly tailored and smart. There was a uniform feel in the functional utility pockets that appeared on floor-sweeping overcoats, worn with wide lapelled blazers and ever-wider legged trousers, focusing on a palette of steely greys.