Drapers’ fashion editor Graeme Moran discusses the standout events from the third day of LCM
The penultimate day of London’s autumn 15 menswear event was a story of similarities and differences, with the emerging trends cropping up in unlikely places contrasted by designers taking very different approaches.
The morning started at Margaret Howell, where sturdy classic outerwear such as wide-lapelled double breasted pea coats and pared back macs (in a similar yellowish tone to yesterday’s YMC show) stood out, alongside a cosy camel suede coat, fluffed up with shearling-lined collar and cuffs, which signalled a flash fabric trend for the day.
Shearling gave warmth to James Long’s show for example, bulking out denim jackets that were decorated with the designer’s artistic flair decoration and embroidery. Then it appeared at Richard James, where chunky shearling coats came in a rich palette of deep blues, showing a much smarted and more luxurious approach. Even at this tailoring house, the utility look spotted so much already this season cropped up too, from a buttoned-up checked wool gilet layered over long sleeve knitwear, to a smart collared coat given a functional spin with four front patch pockets.
Shearling even took a rock and roll course at Belstaff, in a palette of black, white and grey. A biker gang vibe extended across chubby shearling-lined, motorcycle jackets and leather biking trousers, teamed with chunky patterned knitwear.
The feeling for similarities and differences continued with the father and son duo behind Casely Hayford, where the now signature smartness appeared in tailored coats and neat blazers, but came updated with contrasting fabrications, such as the single breasted blazer that opened the show or the smart Crombie coats that were both cut and sliced with panels and stripes of functional quilted fabrics.
In other news, shacking up with Spanish leather house Loewe really has done wonders for Jonathan Anderson’s eponymous label. This is not only in terms of cash injections - the way he has elevated the polish and finesse of his collections over recent seasons is undeniable - but also in terms of bringing out the best of the designer and for maturing his talent. Certainly, there were the standard JW Anderson subversions and quirks that we’ve come to expect, such as the scooping necks on velveteen jackets, the floppy sleeves and oversized cuffs of shirts and the bric-a-brac-style decorative buttons on exaggeratedly-wide collared jackets and coats. But there was also Anderson’s wonderful take on the bestselling bomber jacket shape, worked in purple leather with drooping shoulder details, a standout cream suede jacket with fuzzy-shearling front panels and a striped shawl neck overcoat that all had the instant appeal of lovely, wearable clothes that some previous collections lacked.
Never try and guess what designer Jeremy Scott will do next. This season his Moschino show space was filled with supersized pine trees that became dusted with fake snow that fell from the ceiling as the models took to the catwalk. Setting off on a trek through the blizzard, they came dressed for a ski cabin rave apparently, decked out in shimmering metallic puffa coats, patchwork shearling jackets and fluffy oversized fur-strewn snow boots. There were woolly winter long john thermals encrusted with oversized gems, metallic foiled ski coats strewn with neon floral patterns, lashings of fake leopard fur and frayed tartan tailoring. All a bit much and just a bit fun.
Unlike Scott, Carlo Brandelli is a little more predictable at Kilgour, but not in a bad way. If the Moschino designer favours a ‘more is more’ method, Brandelli can be counted on for taking a ‘less is more’ approach to resurrecting the Savile Row brand. His new season collection was a tightly edited clutch of super luxury items in a strictly simple palette of grey and black, including super soft and squishy suede jackets, fitted cashmere knits and sharply tailored minimalist updates to the classic formal blazer.