It was a case of function in various forms at the standout shows on the second day of the autumn 15 edition of LCM.
It’s a winter season, so the latest designer collections will always somewhat revolve around certain outerwear classics and cosy knits, but already on day two of London Collections: Men there are certain trends emerging that may well go on to dominate this season. The second day saw a focus on the technical and funcational, with performance fabrics that were tweaked in new and interesting ways, creating a look that performs as good as it looks.
Lou Dalton’s almost entirely black-on-black collection tapped into the growing trend for layering, with technical performance fabrics utilised as gilets and insulating layers that came zipped onto more classically tailored wool and cotton coats.
On to Maharishi, where the trend took an urban approach, with sleek athletic bomber jackets stretched into elongated hems and quilted layers that blended functional performancewear with a streetwear vibe.
Astrid Andersen’s signature is her unique approach to street and sportswear, blending luxury elements like fur with sporty shapes, techy fabrics and typically feminine touches such as delicate lace. This season was nothing different in that sense, but it was pleasing to see her expand her repertoire with the introduction of a fully-realised knitwear offer, with oversized cable knits featuring heat pressed photo-real logos and long knee-grazing tabard jumpers.
Design duo Agi and Sam debuted knitwear this season in collaboration with high street name Jaeger - the most covetable element of the pair’s boldy colourful collection. Inspired by their childhoods, there was an element of fun to their use of colour, which came printed, painted and panelled across oversized coats and wide leg trousers.
There were more of the same at YMC, where bomber jackets were updated into full leather styles, lighter jacquards and patch worked quilted options. Quilted detailing also stood out, particularly when worked into a traditional tailored blazer shape, blending the sporty and the sartorial. Chunky oversized cable knits, shrunken cropped blazers, lightweight winter macs (in a flash of autumnal yellow) and shearling-lined leather jackets were also highlights.
Christopher Raeburn has been channelling a ready-for-the-great-outdoors look for many seasons, but with this collection he let his creativity spread. Colour, print, pattern and innovation came together in a winning combination. His stellar polar bear knits of last season became shark intarsias, his signature outerwear was printed, bonded and quilted in new and unique yet wearable ways, while the air-inflated puffa jackets and matching accessories that closed the show reminded us not only of the designer’s technical ingenuity when it comes to fabrication and construction, but also his sense of humour.
The functional trend took a luxury approach at Hardy Aimes, where traditional parkas were remade for the inclement weather of city commutes in super-soft wools and fuzzy furs, layered with more functional separates in performance fabrics and sharply tailored suiting.