Christopher Kane, the rising star of London Fashion Week, showed a technically brilliant collection yesterday, stitching together the lightest of leather skins and gothic black lace into a hard-edged collection of little black dresses.
Kane showed he was also a master of embroidery, decorating his series of leather panelled dresses and jackets with perfectly-symmetric floral motifs. Dresses came short or in fitted pencil styles but clung to the body beautifully, in spite of the unusual mixture of materials, which saw matte and patent leathers shot through with zig zag panels of lace. Selected tops and dresses came with shirt-style collars, which gave the collection a harder edge. This was another great show, and one with commercial potential, by one of the country’s best rising design talents.
At Paul Smith, the collection drew inspiration from country riders and fox-hunters. Models strode the catwalk in out-sized tweed hunting jackets and waxed jackets reminiscent of Barbour styles. Pleated a-line skirts gave this look a feminine twist though but this was sexed up with the glimpse of brightly coloured or tweed corsets peeping out from beneath fitted jackets. Elsewhere, dresses came in 1950s prom shapes in the sheerest of fabrics which were over printed with digital florals and interwoven with the lightest of cobweb knitted panels around the bodice. Most outfits were styled with heeled wellies in reds and greens. A highly commercial offering from the best of British designer.