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London Fashion Week: Christopher Kane, House of Holland

All eyes were on Christopher Kane at London Fashion Week yesterday to see how he would reinvent his girlish yet subversive designs for spring, while later in the day House of Holland packed a lace-led neon punch.

While New York Fashion Week designers were heavily inspired by Kane’s piping and ribboning of last season, the Scotsman twisted and turned his direction again for spring, this time opting for a simple gingham check with which to play.

Fabrics fitted close to the body and flared out into peasant girl prairie dresses, and were woven into boyish knitted tank tops and fused with concertinaed chiffon panels, adding an ethereal bent.

Double thigh-splits provided an element of disturbing sexiness which has become the signature undercurrent of a Kane collection. He finished on a lighter note however, with intricately sequined floral motifs which were initially paired with the checks before taking over chiffon tabard dresses in ice cream shades of banana, spearmint and strawberry.

The House of Holland show at London’s Guildhall was full to the brim with a smorgasbord of celebrities and supporters including WAG Alex Curran and TV personality Lorraine Kelly. For the first time during the designer’s LFW career, friend and supermodel Agyness Deyn watched the show from the front row, rather than walking it’s catwalk.

The collection revolved around neon bright lace and oversized knits - patterned with the HOH cartoon-style house motif. Parts of the range were highly commercial, and standout elements, including lace-panelled blazers, sharp boxy tailoring and one-piece lace leotards, are likely to be copied by the high street before the designer’s spring 10 collection hits the stores. Slogan T Shirts played on a bridal theme, with the words Old, New, Borrowed and Blue splashed across the front.

The label also showcased it’s latest Levi’s collaboration on the catwalk which featured denim shorts and jackets with black leather strapping, tough buckles and panel cut aways.

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