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London Fashion Week: commercial but personal

Another day, and another set of personality-driven, commercially-minded collections at London Fashion Week.

Luckily for buyers, the handwriting of our Brit designers is far from homogenous, and on the whole, LFW designers solidifying their strengths and playing to their fortes has worked to their advantage.


Luella’s girlish punk handwriting was stamped firmly on her autumn 09 collection. Bows running down the backs of three-quarter length jackets, gold and silver brocade bell-skirted prom dresses and Pixie Geldof modelling sky-high Elnett-ed hair informed the typical Luella presentation.

But the queen of the ditsy floral offered some new influences at her show in London’s Covent Garden too, as tweed straight leg trousers and fitted blazers indicated preppy undertones and military references came through courtesy of brassy hook and eye fastenings and red piping on wool jackets.  


Erdem Moralioglu’s blurred and pixilated rainbow florals were one of the big hits of LFW last season, and the Fashion Fringe winner kept the flower power theme at the centre of his collection for autumn 09. From printed mini petals to big hazy blooms, embroidered spidery posies and tone-on-tone appliqué blossoms. These were mainly confined to dresses. Shapes veered from prom dresses with hooped dirndl skirts to puff-shouldered skin-skimming sheaths which either finished on the knee or flowed down to the floor. There were also structured forms ballooning out from just under the bust.

Louise Goldin

Over at Louise Goldin, the young knitwear whiz moved from spring’s icy palette of snow whites and sky blues to a darker set of jet black, midnight blue and rich violet shades. Swarovski-studded cutaway knit panels were paired with armour-like leather cummerbunds reminiscent of Batman’s suit, while sculpted and folded tulip skirts reflected the current tailored mood.

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