With Erdem, Christopher Kane, Giles and Burberry Prorsum, it was all about the headline shows yesterday in London.
Garden florals and delicate sequins wowed at Erdem yesterday with the needlework so fine it was difficult to work out that it was in fact sequins, as pleated skirts and dresses glimmered at the Savoy, where the show was held. A soft palette of powder blue ensued with hints of lemon. Sheath dresses and pencil skirts with short sleeved knits kept the silhouette sophisticated and very ladylike with gloves to match the printed dresses.
Burberry Prorsum reworked the infamous trench for spring in an autumnal palette of teal, burgundy and ochre with highlights of orange in ethnic prints. Skirts varied from high waisted pencil to a fuller silhouette but all stopped below the knee. Raffia and woven details were worked into accessories and on the sleeves of hooded parkas. Drawstring details on jackets continued the sporty element to spring 12 trends.
Black, white and red was the strict colour palette at Giles yesterday, standing out from the rainbow palettes that are dominating elsewhere for spring. Swans were referenced throughout the show in the opening and closing headresses and worked into blown-out silk prints on cocktail dresses that were trimmed with ostrich feathers. High waisted pencil skirts -set to be a key trend for spring 12 - in laser cut silver leather stood out as did a full skirted nude colour dress.
Christopher Kane, always eagerly anticipated, took inspiration from the 1960s with A-line skirts and shift dresses in a pale palette of pearl, mint and lemon with a metallic sheen. This was interrupted with brighter floral details on sheer jackets and t-shirts that stood out, as did the embellishment on denim, which is sure to spark a wider trend on the high street.