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London Fashion Week: London lit up by innovative collections

London Fashion Week got into full swing over the weekend with plenty of pizzazz and punch courtesy of a return to the conical bra, the use of Cleopatra as a style icon and a liberal topping of Swarovski crystals.

Saturday’s highlight was Osman Yousefsada, the Birmingham-born designer who is proving to be a name to watch at LFW. This season he plumped for an all-white collection, only broken up by chunks of gold leaf panelling. The palette left little room to hide, and Osman travelled through Grecian goddess gowns to teenage tennis skirts via mannish suits, tailored blazers and sporty polo dresses which showed off his cut and creation talent well.

PPQ finished off Saturday with a characteristically celeb-packed front row. The designers’ PRs said that the duo were heading for a new direction for spring 10, but there was little evidence of anything too radical as theirsignature party girl dresses and pajama-style all-in-ones still happily clip-clopped along the catwalk, this season rendered in tribal geometrics prints. Slightly odd were the addidas for PPQ T-shirts and knit dresses which suggest the label is well ensconced in brand tie-up territory now. It has also collabortated with Figleaves and to name a couple more.

Onto Sunday and the day started brightly with an innovative collection from Louise Goldin, which looked a little like 15th century meets Star Trek as candy-coloured knickerbockers, asymmetric pleated tennis skirts, and crystal-studded conical bras hit the runway, and were a directional move on from the last two season’s Spoc-style catsuits.

Matthew Williamson was the big ticket for the day, and his signature tribal embellished dresses were whizzed into the future courtesy of sheeny fabrics and glinting adornments.

Katie Grand’s schizophrenic styling of the uber-skinny kids on the Topshop Unique stage drew a few quizzical looks - hot pink pleather cycling shorts had a very targeted wearer.

Vivienne Westwood closed the weekend with plenty of her trademark deconstructed striped suiting mixed in with a dash of Little Bo Peep with sugary pink dresses, scribbly florals and polka dot frocks.

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