The top collections and trends at London Fashion Week
Seen at Daks, Jonathan Saunders, Temperley London
Full-length, on-the-knee or calf-length skirts and dresses were one of the strongest stories and their frumpiness was often balanced with sexy sheer tops.
Seen at Aquascutum, Erdem, Matthew Williamson, Richard Nicoll, Roksanda Ilincic
Orange, red and pink fanned the flames of an atypical autumnal palette.
Fur and Feather trimming
Seen at Burberry Prorsum, Giles, Matthew Williamson, Roksanda Ilincic, Vivienne Westwood Red Label
Luxe textured trims were a good move on from shearling.
Seen at Erdem, Giles, Michael van der Ham, Julien Macdonald
A hand-crafted luxurious feel and a new gothic vibe put velvet to the fore.
Seen at Aquascutum, Burberry Prorsum, House of Holland, Nicole Farhi, Paul Costelloe, Vivienne Westwood Red Label,
There was more than a nod to Britishness with the use of traditional fabrics.
Seen at Mark Fast, Matthew Williamson, Richard Nicoll
Sleeves were important, often coming in contrast fabrics or trimmed heavily with fur. On knitwear, exaggerated textured stitches added interest on sleeves, while coats were sometimes sleeveless to reveal flashes of garments worn underneath.
Peplum waists acted as bustles in this naughty, Victoriana-inspired collection. Black feather trims, Edwardian-style lace collars, champagne silks and fresco prints had a funereal undertone.
Structured lampshade dresses were printed to look like Fabergé eggs, while rustic velvet gypsy skirts looked fresh.
Sheer and silk satin shirts and blouses were tucked into slender knee-length skirts, which were often slit to the thigh. Abstract flora and fauna prints were bold.
Full-length, calf-length, kimono-sleeved, oversized, mannish, military, cocoon, lurid brights, faux fur - you name it, LFW showed a coat like it. Burberry Prorsum led the way on autumn 11’s dominant trend.
Still in play for autumn 11 and often with 1970s undertones thanks to kick-flare and wide-legged options, as seen at Holly Fulton and Richard Nicoll. Slimmer styles also featured.
Wraparound mini kilts were at times worn over trousers at Peter Pilotto and Vivienne Westwood Red Label. Skirts also came long and lean or full and maxi at Temperley London.
The tunic top
Highly forgiving and wearable, the tunic top came
in several guises including sleeveless and long or T-shirt-style at Nicole Farhi, Richard Nicoll and Aquascutum.
The finer details
The lady of the manor was imagined via giant pearl embroidery at House of Holland and Marios Schwab. An Arts and Crafts feel came through via crochet at Christopher Kane and House of Holland, while Erdem embraced intricate machine embroidery and appliqué. Minimalism was seen at Nicole Farhi and
Mark Fast, while Julien Macdonald went goth rock.