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Milan Fashion Week: Dolce & Gabbana, Versace

Dolce & Gabbana went back to basics with a sensitive and seductive show while Versace dialled into a space age sexiness as Milan’s fashion powerhouses opted for simplicity and modernity respectively.

Dolce & Gabbana excelled for autumn 10 with a beautifully simple exhibition of erudite tailoring and an unwavering commitment to creating elegant clothing for women.

Dolce & Gabbana opened the show with a double breasted tailored jacket teamed with nothing but oversized knickers and the long, bare legs of a model with her lips slicked in rogue. The show’s finale displayed the same look in a Robert Plant-esque tribute - with the show’s seventy-plus models walking out en mass wearing variations on the black tailored jacket, giving the show a satisfying sense of complete consistency.

The Dolce & Gabbana collection was punctuated with Ivory, black and gold which ran across the collection, with sophisticated pencil skirt suits and knitted leotards with lace trims, along with leopard print and corsetry injecting the passionate Sicilian handwriting expected from the design duo.

Polka dots were also a big theme, making a resurgence of the fun fifties inspired print which could be good news for the high street, while short suits offered a commercial and contemporary take on tailoring.

A standout piece was a beautiful kimono style, floral print wool coat cut above the knee and belted.

All looks were teamed with simple court shoes with a slight platform in black or red velvet uppers.

At Versace, Donatella channelled Barberella using fabrics with slick patinas on wet look figure hugging trousers and chopped into shiny mini dresses.

The bulk of the dresses were long and sweeping, in keeping with Versace’s handwriting but instead of overt feminine allure for which the fashion house is so well known, an intergalactic theme with foil like trims and cut away pieces gave the collection a space age feel which somewhat jarred with the labels’ distinctive glamorous handwriting.


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