While Gucci tuned into a calming minimalism at Milan Fashion Week, Emilio Pucci delved into the depths of luxurious gothic bohemia and Christopher Kane for Versus once again showcased his rare talent for understanding the desires of the young designer consumer.
The most breathtaking element of Gucci’s autumn 10 presentation was the trouser. The fashion house backed a simple, slick, fresh silhouette with aplomb and produced an item which will appear as a must-have on the high street.
The silhoutte was a long, cigarette trouser, cut straight across the hip, or slightly higher, and fluted at the ankle - worn to the perfect toe-skimming long-length with heels, it added a beautiful sense of proportion to every look it featured in.
The trousers were shown with a long crease running down the front and in shark-grey satin, simple wool and a tweed-like fabrication. They were teamed with heavy wool coats, oversized feather boleros, patchwork coats and ostrich leather jackets.
The colour palette at the Gucci show was calming, in dove-white, cream, camel and grey, it had a minimal and ethereal quality when featured on simple, high-neck long-sleeve dresses, or on a more daring and tighter short-sleeved mini dress slashed open at the top of the rib cage.
Versus is now in the hands of Christopher Kane and he served up a highly commercial collection which hit the young Versace customer’s trend-led sweet spot.
The collection hinged around skirts, like up-turned cupcake cases, strong pleats ran down the ice skater-style skirt silhouette and they were teamed with rock-print T-shirts - adding an accessible item for the younger customer, and a good entry point into the brand.
An olive green velvet blazer and leather biker jacket splayed at the waist were highly commercial.
At Emilio Pucci a sense of dark bohemia pervaded the catwalk as Latino fringing, feather and lace featured heavily. Dresses were slashed to the navel, which diced with being too dated, but they were rescued by accentuated shoulders and a long-arm length which bought them up to date.
Trousers were flared and high-waisted complete with gothic cummerbunds and cropped bolero jackets. The trademark Pucci print was called Capri this season and featured angular print shapes in indigo, peacock blue, navy and lavender.