It was a curious take on an austere mood over at Prada this season, where a sombre palette and heavy fabrics were mixed up with thigh high furry knickers, dangerously low cut dresses and armour-like leather shifts to create a disparity of looks.
The strongest silhouette was in outerwear where double-breasted jackets in burnt red leather or chocolate felted wool were belted at the waist and came in a forest shaded palette of chocolate, aubergine and black. Wartime inspired, the A-line cut was highly wearable, and definitely the highlight of the collection.
Dresses were an incongruent mix, veering from devoré pieces which, despite their intricate detail, failed to deliver on shape as they hung loosely from models’ narrow shoulders, through to ultra-low V neck items which paired fur or wool with velvet.
The most interesting dresses were reserved until the end, where tan and black leather were slashed and studded and under laid with beaded or chainmail skirts, and looked more like the directional Prada we would expect to see.