Last season’s amorous theme – remember those open zipped heart motifs? - was replaced with a renewed emphasis on sexiness for autumn 09, as Donatella Versace sent a raft of slinky, sultry outfits strutting down the Milanese catwalk.
Gone were the frothy candy colours of spring, and in their place came liquid metallic satins, woven silver lurex and silhouettes suited to only the most body brave of wearers. A flash of décolletage here or an exposed collarbone there, Versace knows how to accentuate a woman’s best assets, so mini dresses were slashed to the waist, maxi styles slit up to the thigh, and sheeny cigarette pants worn skin tight.
Surface texture added extra impact to the collection, as contrast panelled dresses were slashed and re-fixed in place with safety pin-like details, and suede jackets featured mesh cutaway panels. Dresses were given a mermaid effect with over-sized paillette details and metallic splashes added a sci-fi bent to simple knit cardigans.
Outerwear was thin on the ground but offered the most reference to Versace’s generally favoured bright palette, as she sent out fuzzy trench coats in tangerine and hot pink.
In other news, Christopher Kane will be designing a capsule collection of accessories and footwear for Versace’s diffusion line, Versus, for autumn 09. Kane has worked as a part-time consultant to the Versace house since 2007. He shows his own collection at London Fashion Week.