The glitz and glamour which traditionally takes centre stage at Milan Fashion Week returned to the Italian catwalks again for autumn 09, as designers focused on luxe fabrics, subversive sexiness and structured silhouettes to offer a strong, cohesive message to the watching buyers.
After last season’s more feminine offering, moody palettes reigned supreme fused with the rockiness and tailoring edge we saw emerging at London and the luxury fabrics which took centre stage at New York. Milan Fashion Week closed yesterday.
Tailoring was particularly strong at Giorgio Armani, where the Italian designer offered tailed blazer and cigarette pant sets and paired granddad collar pinstriped jackets with slightly flared 7/8th length trousers. Tailored dresses were the star turn over at Jil Sander where asymmetric styles waved around the body and were pulled into sharp points at the hips. More subtle versions involved cut away shoulders and delicately pointed necklines.
Super sexiness came through most overtly at Versace, where models were poured into skintight mini dresses, slashed and repined, with plunging necklines and splits cut dangerously high on the thigh. Gucci’s appeal was more rock star than cover star, but shaggy shearling coats, dropped waist leather dresses and shrunken biker jackets in an underworld palette of jet black, midnight blue and deep plum offered a particularly strong statement.
Alberta Ferretti was one of the top proponents for fusing luxury fabrics to create texture and surface interest. Silks coated with metallic effects were trimmed in velvet, wool A-line skirts were worn with colour blocked chiffon tops and satin obi belts, and crushed silk was dotted with black sequins.