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Milan Men's Fashion Week: back from black

The men’s catwalks in Milan got under way this weekend with a more positive verve than last season’s black-heavy credit-crunched looks.

Tomas Maier injected of a vibrant red theme into his spring 10 collection for Bottega Veneta while Gucci deployed bold primaries on printed shirts and Aztec-style knits, worn with pristine white suiting, proving there are more confident style statements on the horizon. Pure white was also the opening statement at Versace. 

However grey remained the anchor shade and was the colour of choice for sexy, tight-fitting suits at Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana, where the figure-hugging silhouettes and tiny shorts looked destined for life in the wardrobe of Portuguese football sensation and doyen of male grooming Cristiano Ronaldo.

British designers took a less structured view of the season with Christopher Bailey’s Burberry Prorsum collection opting for a softer shoulder on single-breasted suiting, which was teamed with casual crew necks and wraparound knits and double-breasted outerwear. 

Meanwhile Vivienne Westwood continued with her flirtation with the 1950s, showing pleated wide-fitting trousers combined with slim knit polo shirts.

Two days in to Milan Men’s Fashion Week, and we have more colour and more play with silhouette than last season already – it bodes well for a more exciting menswear season with plenty for retailers to get their teeth into. 

For more spring 10 menswear trends see the forthcoming issue of Drapers (June 27), which will feature a full report from Florence menswear show Pitti Uomo. Drapers (July 4) will feature an in-depth guide to the men’s catwalks.

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