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Milan Men's Fashion Week: Jil Sander, Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana

Milan Men’s Fashion Week kicked off this weekend, with some of fashion’s biggest players revealing their latest spring 13 collections.

The opening day saw one of the most anticipated shows of the season take place, as Jil Sander revealed her first collection following her recent return as head of her eponymous label.

The show symbolically took place in the same venue that Sander showed her first-ever menswear collection some 15 years ago and was full of her trademark minimalist tailoring, mixing the smart with the sporty. Sharp blazers came in single-breasted and double-breasted styles, sometimes sleeveless or sometimes longer-line almost like frockcoats, teamed with sleek white shirts or over-the-knee shorts. There was a nod to the season’s growing print trend too, as graphic intarsia patterns scrawled across short sleeve jumpers or matchy-matchy honeycomb prints covered shirts, jumpers and jackets that were all layered together.

Christopher Bailey produced another of the weekend’s big shows, with a collection that was trademark Burberry Prorsum but in a surprising way. Eye catching metallics caught the eye like shiny sweet wrappers, covering everything from collars to shirts, macs and slim cut trousers. Colourful contrast sleeve blouson jackets and painterly printed shirts also stood out, alongside Bailey’s trademark razor-sharp tailoring.

Elsewhere Dolce & Gabbana celebrated the Sicilian man, with voluminous pleated shorts and boxy shirts splashed in Sicilian prints, while Donatella Versace sent out a troupe of bare-chested gladiators (complete with gold medallions and wrestling belts), decked out in broad-shouldered blazers and an array of sporty jackets.

Mrs Prada went for something totally different, leaving behind her highly influential quirky prints of the past few seasons for a collection that was simple and slick with a slight seventies sports vibe.

Big shows over the next few days include Italian power houses Gucci, Missoni and Giorgio Armani.

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