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Mills take few risks at Première Vision

The spring 2010 textile trends presented at Première Vision in Paris earlier this month used a risk-averse palette to signal a more business-like womenswear season.

In terms of fabric weights, the show saw a polarisation in womenswear with heavyweight, structured fabrics alongside a host of diaphanous nets and gossamer, soft-handle knits and wovens.

While silky effects and diaphanous layers lent a greater fluidity to many of the fabrics, even some of these were designed to create structured silhouettes through layering.

Neutral shades dominated the colour palette, punctuated by rich blue shades and acidic citrus tones. A colour forecaster for one UK high street
retailer said: “There are loads of neutrals and the standout colour for the season is blue.”

Overall, the trends presented steered clear of glitzy looks and there was a reduced showing of metallics. Even among prints, one of the main stories was a washed-down effect, although there were brighter options among watercolour-style prints.

Mills at the show said buyers were ordering later, and one mill said it was using the show to finalise autumn 09 orders while showing spring 10 fabrics.
Mukesh Mishra, head of European operations for Indian mill Raymond, which supplies retailers such as Marks & Spencer, TM Lewin and Next, said: “One UK buyer who usually wants to find out what’s new wasn’t interested this time. He focused on plains and wools.”

Footfall at the show was slightly down, after the closure of Paris airports due to high winds.

For a full report on Première Vision, see next week’s Drapers.

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