Layering and texture were the order of the day at New York Fashion Week yesterday as Marc by Marc Jacobs, Derek Lam and Rodarte presented cohesive autumn 10 collections.
Marc by Marc Jacobs
The younger sibling of the Marc Jacobs mainline presented a youthful collection with 90’s grunge and military references.
Oversized wool slouchy jackets and thick knit jumpers in bright stripes were worn loose or belted tightly at the waist.
Trousers worn loose in heavy wool fabrics were voluminous and pinched in with skinny belts.
A military inspired take on long, double breasted tailored coats contrasted with the blanket style coats seen elsewhere in the collection.
Red was the overriding bright colour. Khaki and olive green shades underpinned the collection and ran across men’s and women’s styles.
Denim inserts and panels were seen on dresses and skinny trousers, while lace tops and dresses featured towards the end of the collection as an evening option.
The Derek Lam show featured a plethora of suede, tassels and leather as the Wild West rolled in to New York.
Lam’s influence for autumn 10 was Julie Christie in the Seventies film “McCabe & Mrs. Miller,” who played a British expat in the Robert Altman directed Western.
Silhouettes were chic and slim with single breasted wool coats in camel and grey teamed with leather trousers. Dresses had leather sleeves, while other dresses had contrasting shoulder panels.
Fur came in the form of gillets and a mid-length coat. Cable knit jumpers were teamed with pleated leather and suede skirts. Boot-cut trousers enhanced the feminine silhouette.
Camel, charcoal grey and rich brown tones ruled in terms of colour. Brown suede boots and fringed leather belts tied in perfectly with the western theme.
The Mulleavy sisters Kate and Laura, the design duo behind Rodarte, looked to Mexican border towns for inspiration in a layered collection reminiscent of nomad silhouettes.
Delicate lace and chiffon were juxtaposed with wide weave knits and chunky scarves. Materials were tied and knotted to create structure and texture. Softer fabrics were draped and layered add femininity.
Laura Mulleavy said they had been thinking about the Mexican border town of Juarez and “the idea of sleepwalking and existing between worlds.”
Lace was seen again on the New York catwalks, as it had at Marc Jacobs and Donna Karan the previous day. the fabrication is likely to build on its existing commercial appeal into autumn 10.
Shoes created for the show by designer Nicholas Kirkwood continued the layered theme with wrap around ivory fabric on the foot and ankle.
The palette was decidedly light for an autumn show, as ivory and light grey, mixed in with watercolour floral prints in rich berry shades.
The trends within the collection which have the greatest commercial appeal are set to be layering and contrasting fabrics which create varied textural qualities.