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New York Fashion Week: Marc Jacobs turns Japanese

Marc Jacobs added a strong shot of originality into New York’s spring 10 shows with a collection which played with fabric, volume and intricate handiwork on Monday.

Texture was paramount as the versatility of the ruffle was showcased through its frothy pink incarnations cascading down the body on dresses, festooning silk chiffon blouses and adding shape to the pockets and shoulders of pinstriped blazers.

The sporty feel of Alexander Wang’s Sunday show was in evidence again here, as leotards were rendered in cutaway silks and woollen tank top styles.

A Japanese theme also underpinned the show courtesy of the models’ blood red Geisha lips and slicked back top knots and came through strongly in the clothing with satin Aladdin pants, and printed dropped crotch jumpsuits which billowed out from the hips.

Military jackets and sheeny trenchcoats were belted just below the bust and umbrella-ed out from underneath to create a new silhouette suggestion for the season.

Donna Karan continued with her soft suiting separates of last season, rendered for spring in lighter peach, seal grey and mushrooms satins. The softer tones lent themselves to more draping, particularly on asymmetric dresses, while sleeveless tops featured structured ruffles along the bottom which folded back to reveal tonal shades.

Printed tulle tutus suggested a balletic influence, as did the slashed hankerchief hems on dresses. V-necks, wraparound shapes and almost every outfit cinched in tightly at the waist created the sexiness needed to balance out the girlish fabrics however, as oversized lapels and widely cut necklines also hinted at a futuristic influence.

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