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New York Fashion Week: Proenza Schouler and Oscar de La Renta

After a number of New York designers failed to ignite imaginations over the pond this week, the cool which oozed from Proenza Schouler’s spring offering made up for some lost ground in the innovation stakes.

Designed - it appeared - purely with the rock chick in mind, the duo opted for less ladylike refinery than in previous seasons. A young take on the wraparound shape saw deconstructed tie-dyed shirt dresses cris-cross along the front, and wet look fabrics fold and fall around the hips.

A jewel palette punctuated flapper style feather trimmed dresses with tinsel strings, and animal prints were twisted into symmetrical patterns in shades of amethyst and emerald.

Oscar de La Renta never strays far from his luxury cocoon and despite recessional headaches he remains true to form for spring 10.

Safari suits in teal satin, embroidered three-quarter length jackets teeming with sequins, and brightly coloured cardis edged in golden beads all spoke a luxe language.

Younger customers will enjoy the spotty tutu skirts, cropped chambray jackets, doily effect playsuits and brocade purple houndstooth dresses with puffed sleeves, as well as the frothy tulle ruffles on the finishing evening gowns.

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