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NYFW: Marc Jacobs catches the 1980s bug

A defiant creative mood informed Marc Jacobs’ catwalk presentation last night at New York Fashion Week.

Determined not to play too commercial a game in the face of the sombre economic picture Marc Jacobs rolled out a parade of disparate recession-busting ready-to-party looks.

Following a safe intro section of grey knits, some with intricate shoulder details, Jacobs let loose with a volley of dramatic mini dresses, some in subtly draped structured wools, others with all-over studding, pagoda shoulders and asymmetric hemlines. But it was Marc Jacobs’ bandage-wrapped mini-dresses which looked most directional and caught the buyers’ eyes.

With his balance sheet in mind the second biggest category after mini-dresses was outerwear. Firmly in 1980s mode, a myriad of coat shapes, were presented in a super-bright palette. From parkas and ponchos, to boxy Harringtons and capes the emphasis was on colour and over-the-top shoulder lines in a collection pitched firmly at aspiring Lady Gagas.

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