The onslaught of the Brits in New York continued yesterday with a sophisticated presentation from the erstwhile baron of boho Matthew Williamson.
Clearly designed with the US market in mind, Matthew Williamson turned down his signature palette of super-bright shades and attention-grabbing prints in favour of a more restrained offer of clean-lined elegant daywear and sexy party dresses.
Careful not to overly suppress his innate sense for colour, Matthew Williamson used tribal-inspired ombre treatments, all-over sequined patterns and metallic surfaces in a bid to sex up his uncluttered silhouettes. Standout styles included a slouch-sleeved shawl collared coat, heavily-embellished mini dresses, leather biker trousers with reinforced knees, textured knitted mini-dresses, and a Peruvian patterned Fair Isle knit dress.
Panelling was important throughout the collection. At its most visually arresting, the technique deployed zig-zag striped panels on knits and outerwear. Elsewhere, simple tunic dresses were enlivened by heavily embellished Mayan-inspired bibs, while fractal-patterned prints added a futuristic optic to silk column-shaped evening gowns.
Like many of his predecessors at New York Fashion Week, Matthew Williamson’s autumn 09 collection had been slightly scaled back with a strict focus on the designer’s most commercial categories, namely dresses and tops.