British designers presenting off-schedule grabbed the attention of womenswear buyers with directional and unique designs at last week’s London Fashion Week.
At On|Off, one of the main showcases for up-and-coming designers which took place at the Science Museum, former Topshop New Generation Award winner Osman Yousefzada showed a collection which fused futuristic neoprene coats and cropped boiled wool jackets in frosty blue and ivory with Eastern-influenced silver sequin-encrusted neck cuffs and ultra wide-leg satin trousers in midnight blue and teal.
Commercially cut pegged trousers and elegantly crafted trapeze coats highlighted Yousefzada’s tailoring talent, while his draped column gowns displayed a softer side.
Pam Hogg, who has been designing edgy womenswear for 25 years, showed her first catwalk since the late 1990s at On|Off. Hogg played to her subversive strengths with revealing Latex and sheer panelled dresses, and futuristic cut-out catsuits in rainbow shades of gold, silver, fuchsia and metallic lilac. Volume came through on equally colourful furry jackets.
At Vauxhall Fashion Scout, the catwalk event for emerging designers which took place on Cromwell Road in South Kensington, 23-year old William Tempest was awarded the show’s first Merit Award, following on from his inclusion in the Fashion Fringe group of designers for spring 09.
Tempest’s autumn 09 collection featured structured dresses in rich satins, lightning-inspired prints and angular pencil skirts.
Other strong collections included the Horace label by Emma Hales and Adam Entwistle, which served up grungy rock looks including slashed fabrics, leather cigarette trousers and caped coats.
Martyn Roberts, co-founder of Vauxhall Fashion Scout, said: “We offer emerging designers the chance to show their designs on a catwalk which can represent their whole vision. Designers can’t simply leave college and be instantly successful businesses, so an off-schedule show offers a route into that.”