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Paris Couture: Chanel, Giorgio Armani Privé, Givenchy

The second day of Paris Couture saw the opulent looks tempered with strong commercial suiting on the catwalks and in the showrooms.

Chanel offered up a series of vastly contrasting silhouettes with its dresses, from slim, short cocktail pieces to structured pencil skirts to vast trapeze lines. Detail was strong with Indian and floral tapestry-style embroideries. Karl Lagerfeld also served up some classic Chanel suiting with a twist. Cropped tweed jackets with three-quarter-length sleeves were teamed with long A-line skirts and ruched ankle boots for a prairie feel while longer balloon-sleeve jackets were put with knee-length pencil skirts with a folded hem.

The palette was subdued at Giorgio Armani’s Privé collection where camel and chocolate shades were lifted only by the occasional duck egg blue or gold. But the collection was overtly commercial for couture and offered chic cuts in satin, silk and tweed.Suiting draped beautifully. Wide cut silk trousers were teamed with fitted jackets with structured shoulders and ruffled fastening detail and fitted dresses were given structure with folds or knots in fabric. Eveningwear was opulent with full-length gowns in shimmering silks and tweeds.

At Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci took his collection off the catwalk and into the Hotel d’Evreux to show ten looks inspired by artist Frida Kahlo. The collection channelled Kahlo’s Mexican heritage with a nod to the country’s Day of the Dead festival. Lace skeletons were subtly woven on to blush catsuits layered under light silk tulle dresses for a ghostly effect. Feathers on the hems on dresses and the shoulders of jackets added volume and heavy embellishment on a full-length, fitted gown gave a glamorous finish.

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