Sporty mesh details and an abundance of white united Chloé and Stella McCartney yesterday, as YSL preferred a more autumnal palette and a nod to the 1940s peplum shapes.
Chloé had a new designer on board in Clare Waight Keller for spring 12. Waight Keller debuted a collection of loose shapes and fluidity, with pleats, A-line shapes on dresses and full trousers. Mesh panels and sheer details followed springs emerging trends and floral appliqué was seen on a crisp white shirt and culottes. There was plenty of white, in addition to coffee cream shades and highlights of sunset red and teal. Standout pieces included the tented A-line dresses and mesh sleeve sports influenced jacket.
Shrub greens, grey and navy added up to a rather autumnal affair at Yves Saint Laurent. High neck blouses contrasted with plunging necklines on maxi dresses and halterneck scarf tops. Peplum hem skirts added movement as did ruffled sleeveless tops. Jackets were important with boxy shapes manifesting in a cape style coat and a three quarter length overcoat. Prints also played a part with maxi printed skirts and dresses contrasting with crisp white knee-length styles. Highlights included boxy jackets and matching peplum skirts.
With last year’s profits enjoying a 34.4% lift, eyes were on Stella McCartney to see if she could deliver the goods for spring 12. McCartney treaded the line between being feminine but not overly girly well, with swirl effect edges softly trimming dresses. Mesh details prevented the collection from being too far removed from McCartney’s handwriting and gave it a sporty athleticism. Paisley prints were another key trend for spring worked into pyjama trousers sets which we also saw at Richard Nicoll for spring 12, giving a nod to the lounge suits of the 1960s. Cobalt and sky blue, meadow green and white dominated a mixed palette.