Paris fashion week is well under way, here are the top shows from day three.
Guillaume Henry’s autumn 12 Carven collection was always going to be hard to top, but the designer delivered a stand out collection that mixed the girly school girl gone-bad vibe of last season with a sharp, sexy and altogether more grown up look. The fun prints, the lace, the signature cheeky peek-a-boo cut outs – Henry did it again.
It was all about the shoulders at Balmain, where Olivier Rousteing mixed an early nineties vibe with Latino inspirations, offering mannish trousers teamed with power blazers and jackets (think pumped up, super voluminous shoulders). As always it was a more is more approach, with heavy basket weaves clashed with dense embellishment and graphic prints.
Alber Elbaz’s take on tuxedo dressing opened his Lanvin show, but with jackets that were taken apart and put back together in a sexy, vampy way – sometimes as slinky trousers suits or jackets worn as dresses. These came alongside subtle Japanese references (a trend seen at several shows this season), which manifested itself as kimono style wraps and obi belted bows. The final looks were the simplest, but also some of the most successful, as simple shifts dazzled in jewel tones.
Today’s top shows include Raf Simons’ ready-to-wear debut at Dior, alongside Maison Martin Margiela, Isabel Marant and Roland Mouret.