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Paris Fashion Week: Dries Van Noten, Gareth Pugh

Dries Van Noten and Gareth Pugh offered two very different collections on the opening day of Paris Fashion Week.

Gareth Pugh, the reigning king of gothic-wear, displayed his models in leather jackets with a rubber-like appearance and coats moulded to the body, to create what looked like a parade of Pugh superheroes.

Chevron patterns deep-set into the leather created an industrial feel and were paired with variations in trouser cut, including skinny and fluted leg shapes.

Unfinished frayed-edge silk in slate grey blanket wraps and wide web-knits softened the silhouette.

Jackets with funnel necks were cut to a ‘V’ at the front and featured asymmetric zips.

A more sophisticated look saw wool coats twinned with wide leather waist belts complete with chevron patterned lining mirroring the running theme.

As to be expected, black and grey dominated the collection. Highlights included a shift dress decorated with delicate chain detail draped across the body and sleeves.

Always careful not to be put pigeonholed, Dries Van Noten offered a handful of different styles and trends that ranged a spectrum of era’s from 1950’s prim A-line skirts to 1980’s blazers in metallic gold.

Formal looks were often paired with casual, as utilitarian military silhouettes were juxtaposed with heavy embellished sleeves and watercolour painted palettes.

Colour was abundant in moody purple hues, lime green and metallic gold, paired with classic black, navy and camel.

Highlights included floral abstract silk prints and sleeveless A-line dresses belted at the waist for an hourglass silhouette.

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