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Paris Fashion Week: Gareth Pugh’s black parade

The international fashion lollapalooza swung into Paris for the start of the French capital’s Fashion Week which kicked off yesterday.

A hunting ground for the world’s most creatively adventurous buyers, the Paris Fashion Week schedule opened with a typically dark presentation by Brit designer Gareth Pugh.

Whether Gareth Pugh’s decision to swap a traditional runway show for the video presentation seen yesterday had anything to do with budget slashing was unclear although his evolution to a more commercial handwriting was certain.

Swerving from a black palette to pay mere lip service to grey and metallic hematite, the theatrical collection exchanged Gareth Pugh’s traditionally exaggerated silhouettes into sleek, sexier shapes.

Panelling and dramatic shoulders, two of the key trends in London were referenced throughout. Structured woollen dresses with leather side panels had winged shoulders, while Barbarella-inspired cap-sleeved mini-dresses in hematite featured contrast side inserts. Gareth Pugh’s twisted take on knitwear had polo neck jumper dresses in a metallic knit creating a dull-shimmer chainmail effect.

Like many of his peers, Gareth Pugh placed an emphasis on outerwear. Triangle pattern quilted jackets featured hoods and a crossover lancet fastening with puffy full-length coats, again in metallic hematite, had a subtle fishtail hemline.  

If rumours that Gareth Pugh is soon to take over the creative reigns at Dior Homme are to be believed, then yesterday’s presentation will underline the maturing designer’s ability to translate his spiky aesthetic into a more money-spinning mantra.

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