Sarah Burton’s first catwalk outing as creative head of the Alexander McQueen was a triumph in Paris yesterday.
Burton’s solo debut, following the death of founder Lee Alexander McQueen earlier this year, struck a perfect balance between the design house’s signature style - think slim fit trousers and tail coats and extravagant dresses - and her own.
Burton used a mixture spiky and delicate feathers and layer upon layer of sculpted chiffon to create some show-stopping gowns but also crafted a series of black and white frock coats, which she teamed with McQueen’s signature perfect-cut trousers. Lace panelling played a key role, decorating black mini dresses and black trousers which stopped just short of the ankle, while Burton turned the cut-out leather trend on its head, leaving behind what most designer have taken away this season to create beautifully delicate dresses linked together by stamped out leather flowers.
The fashion crowd were only ever going to hail Burton’s first outing as a success, but this truly deserved high praise.
Separately Chanel showed a series of black, white and grey distressed tweed jackets. This was a collection that stayed true to the heritage of the brand - nothing remarkable but very wearable.