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Paris Fashion Week: Stella McCartney, Yves Saint Laurent

Grown-up dressing at Stella McCartney and Yves Saint Laurent saw the clean and tailored look that has dominated the Paris catwalks continue.

A streamlined cashmere coat with notched lapels opened the show at Stella McCartney; a sign of things to come in a collection that was all about fuss-free clean lines.

A sixties theme was laced throughout the show with ankle-skimming Capri trousers paired with pointy kitten heels, which look set to see a resurgence after seasons of platforms, dangerously high hemlines and sleeveless shift dresses.

A delicate palette of camel, tan and grey was complemented by strong black for evening looks and a hint of fuchsia and tangerine.

One-shoulder dresses with sheer organza overlays and silk floor-length gowns cut high at the front and left flowing at the back satisfied evening looks.

The strongest look of the collection was the minimalist shapes of the shift dresses and tailored trousers and coats. Design detail such as the notched lapel will no doubt be picked up as a designer inspiration for commercial tailoring.

At first glance you could be forgiven for thinking that Catholic symbolism provided the influence for Yves Saint Laurent’s show. Habit-like hoods and heavy chain pendants along with starched white shirts were seen on the catwalk. However, designer Stefano Pilati made no admission to any religious symbolism in his autumn 10 show.

Capes were a running theme, attached to little black dresses and coats, at times in the form of clear PVC over black box jackets and white shirts.

As with many autumn 10 shows, black and white dominated, with fuchsia, cobalt blue and yolk yellow in silk and chiffon capes and evening dresses closing the show.

Commercial highlights included the high-waisted flared trousers, capes and the overall influence of tailoring that has been consistent in autumn 10 shows.

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