The Paris menswear catwalks, as ever, lightened the sartorial load that was expressed in Milan last week.
Looser lines, ultra lightweight fabrics and, typically, a touch more adventure in the cut demonstrated a more experimental approach to key pieces. Sleeveless jackets and shirts, for example, came through at Dior Homme, Lanvin and Givenchy while the 1db tailoring silhouette came through at Hugo Boss and Gaspard Yurkievich for a 1980s take on tailoring.
As in Milan – and previously at Italian menswear show Pitti Uomo in Florence – the db yet again gained ground in tailoring terms and was used on most catwalks. Commercial examples came through in gently deconstructed styles at Paul Smith, luxurious volume at Lanvin and leaner versions at Dries Van Noten.
And, while Raf Simons was among the few that kept the line lean, more common was a more relaxed approach to tailoring and overall the menswear silhouette continued to loosened up. Alongside deconstructed jackets, there were looser and tapered trousers on soft handle fabrics on the catwalks of Comme des Garcons and Ann Demeulemeester.
Despite the Parisian sense of adventure, the colour spectrum on show was less experimental with black and white the key shades.
Hugo Boss, Givenchy and Emanuel Ungaro went for gleaming white tailoring, Gaspard Yurkievich used black white and grey and Lanvin was anchored to black. Even at Paul Smith which featured some juicy brights and soft pastels in the mix, the show opened with black.
On outerwear a utilitarian feel was injected at Junya Watanabe, John Galliano and Kenzo while Rick Owens and Raf Simons both went for laundered and coloured leathers. Wide-fitting parkas were used in mod-friendly styles at Paul Smith.
On the casual side, long line T-shirts emerged, with Petrar Petrov among the adopters. The soft, tiny collared shirt worn buttoned up and without a tie 1980s-style, was another key piece to emerge with directional examples at Henrik Vibskov and Juun J.