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Pitti sets the tone for the season to come

Ana Santi

The menswear collections have moved on enough from last season to offer something new

As I write, menswear show Pitti Uomo has opened its doors in Florence to what it hopes will be a stampede of excited and expectant buyers. The first established show of the season, Pitti will set the tone for the autumn 10 buying season, one which the industry hopes will be full of inspiring product.

At Pitti, from what I’ve heard so far buyers are pleased with what they’ve seen - a grown-up, worn-down, vintage and casual look prevails. If you’re bored of checks, then tough, but the menswear collections have moved on enough from last season to offer something new for buyers and shoppers alike.

Knitwear, in particular, has come out strong in the form of heavy outerwear or as a thick layer, as opposed to fine-gauge knits. As for the rest, there is plenty of denim, chambray and workwear detail, with heritage still the inspiration behind many brands.

Perhaps true ingenuity, and a move away from the more classic designs that menswear is known for, will come in a few seasons’ time from a host of young, talented designers that Drapers and the rest of the industry has identified as part of our Next Generation special this week. All aged 30 or under, these stars of the future could be just what we need to breathe new life into fashion design by creating some inspiring, yet commercial, collections.

In the meantime, next up on the trade show circuit are streetwear exhibition Bread & Butter in Berlin and womenswear show Prêt à Porter in Paris, both next week, and the pressure will be on the brands to deliver once again. As well as great product, buyers will be keeping a close eye on pricing (which doesn’t always mean cheap, but simply good value for money) and on those suppliers that go the extra mile.

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