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Pitti Uomo

Ana Santi

Silhouettes may have stayed the same, but a host of jackets, plenty of stripes and no shortage of colour cheered menswear buyers in Florence.

The sun shone, the brands delivered, and the buyers were happy. Pitti Uomo’s halls were buzzing with the best of UK retailing as menswear multiples, indies and etailers trawled the stands, pleased with spring 12’s classic styling and bold colours.

There were no dramatic changes in silhouette, but brands served up enough newness to satisfy buyers. The most shocking change was men’s favourite - checks - playing second fiddle to stripes.

“Buyers want jackets, jackets and jackets,” said Dougie Hood, sales manager of Savile Row tailor William Hunt. Indeed, every brand had jacket options on display. The double-breasted style, in particular, which had been slowly making waves over the past few seasons, found its way into the mainstream.

Michael Searle, brand divisional manager at Fourmarketing for brands Sand and CP Company, said there had been demand for blazers. He added that soft linen shirts had also been popular.

Colour also went down well with Matt Roberts, menswear buyer at Scotts and Mats Klingberg, founder of Trunk Clothiers in London.Roberts preferred next season’s pastel shades, while Klingberg liked the bold splashes of primary colour.

And there were plenty of classic pieces among the brands’ collections, with navy arguably the most favoured base colour for next season, while chinos and tailored shorts kept the look smart.

The heritage trend was still in full force, but brands and buyers need to tread carefully; own-label multiples have had plenty of time to perfect the look at a fraction of the price.

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